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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.